The restaurant formerly known as King Tsin reopened in May 2015 with a new focus on Sichuan cuisine, a management team made up of recent departees from Albany’s China Village, and a menu that bears more than a passing resemblance to the one at its new owners’ former employer. The important thing, though, is that the restaurant now serves some of the best Chinese food in the East Bay — especially if you have a taste for the tongue-numbing spice and complex layers of flavor that characterize traditional Sichuan cuisine. If you are an admirer of such China Village classics as the smoky-sweet wok-charred cabbage or the tender cumin lamb, you’ll find equally tasty versions here. Several show-stopping dishes reveal a flair for the dramatic: a (surprisingly mild) fish fillet soup that arrives with a fear-inspiring number of dried red chilies floating on top, and a home-style braised pork shoulder that’s as big as a small chicken.
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