In an artisanal pastry landscape dotted with the efforts of chefs trying to catch lightning in a bottle, Cronut-style, it might surprise you that the East Bay's tastiest and most decadent variation on a croissant — the ham and egg croissant — comes from its most traditional French bakery. While regulars have dubbed Fournée Bakery the undisputed champ of laminated dough, most of the bakery's offerings are fairly conservative: textbook-perfect plain croissants, baguettes, and the like. But there's nothing dull about its ham-and-egg masterpiece — a crisp curlicue of ham wrapped around a white cloud of an egg, all swaddled in layers of flaky, buttery croissant dough. It's a triumph of classical French baking techniques — or maybe just the perfect self-contained breakfast sandwich.
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