Any conversation about Hog’s Apothecary ought to begin and end with its beer list: 33 rotating drafts lovingly curated by a certified cicerone serve as an amazingly diverse, eminently quaffable encyclopedia of California’s craft beer scene. You’d suspect that the food would play second fiddle at a place like this, but chef John Streit has put together an impressive menu that relies heavily on whole-animal butchery, heritage grains, and seasonal vegetables. The most prominent feature is a selection of good — and, in some cases, fancy — sausages made from animals that Streit butchers himself in-house. But beautiful seasonal dishes like an early October smoked eggplant and melon salad or a Moroccan-style roast leg of lamb (with nettles, delicata squash, and soupy farro that had soaked up all the lamb’s meaty juices) go far beyond what you’d find at your typical sausage-and-beer joint.
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