The hardworking, solicitous sandwich-makers at E-Z Stop build tall substantial towers. The size of the sandwiches and the friendliness of the staff evoke times of yore, that gentle generosity of delis in the eon before Subway, when confident countermen asked gently, All the trimmings, miss? and sliced onions with bravura and seemed to care. The fourteen-ounce avocado-and-cheese sandwich is a cant-fit-your-mouth-around-it block comprising an entire avocado, several thick slices of cheese, and fistfuls of raw produce. A seventeen-ounce egg-salad sandwich, black-pepper bits spiking its silky smoothness, soars four inches tall. These are master-class sandwiches: plainly exquisite, exquisitely plain.
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