Hours: Tue.-Sat. 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m.
No more than a runaway shopping cart's distance from the insanity of Berkeley Bowl, Elizabeth Kloian's old-fashioned pastry shop is a prim fantasy of Central Europe. The cakes and tortes have lush, mousse-y textures within meticulously refined shapes. There's pave vergiate, a fudgy brownie gone implausibly airy; moist, espresso-black New Orleans bourbon cake; and vatroushka, Russian cheesecake with a delicate sour-milk tang. The vibe is as hushed as a library, but Kloian's pastries definitely stand up to quiet study.
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