Two decades ago, Ken Lewis fell in love with Maria Delgadillo while he was on shore leave in San Diego. He spent weeks trying to woo her up to San Francisco. Eventually, it worked, and the couple moved in together. In 1997, they traded their house for an old RV, and picked up a lease to an old taqueria in South Berkeley. Lewis worked night shifts at Home Depot and days at the restaurant. Delgadillo, the daughter of a fisherman in Ensenada, Baja California, cooked food from home. In the winters, they took the kids inside to sleep next to the heaters in the restaurant's kitchen. Seventeen years later, La Familia is embedded in the culinary heart of Berkeley, dishing out the best fish tacos in town — Alaskan pollock doused in a light beer batter and mixed with thin cabbage and a sour cream bay sauce — at prices as low as they've always been.
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