Prepared properly, the root beer float is the perfect combustion of dessert and elixir, a seemingly simple mashup of ice cream and brewed sarsaparilla that manages to be sweet, snarky, cool, creamy, earthy, and effervescent all at the same time. Hudson, John Hurley's stark, snazzy temple to New American cookery, prepares a root beer float that respects the concoction's classic symmetry while adding touches of elegance and showbiz. It's served parfait style in a tall glass with alternating layers of vanilla ice cream and an icy granita made from Abita's exemplary sugarcane root beer, a pitcher of (non-frozen) Abita presented alongside for personalized pouring. The crunch of the granita and the almost peppery bite of the root beer are cushioned by the lush, pillowy ice cream; a plate of warm-from-the-oven chocolate chip cookies gilds the lily nicely.
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