Best Pâté


Adesso is best known for its fantastic array of salumi (some four dozen variations at last count), but the kitchen is equally adept at the crafting of singularly spiced pâtés in wide and exotic variety. We aren't talking your garden variety French liverwurst but stuff like chopped duckmeat spiced with blood orange and pig's head sausage; minced chicken with bits of artichoke and the rind of the Meyer lemon; and ciccioli, scraps of fatty pigmeat pressed, dried, and aged into a dream of creamy cholesterol. There's also a rustic, coarsely textured rabbit varietal touched with saffron and sparkling prosecco. But our favorite pâté is the pigeon, a satiny slice of puréed avian accented with tarragon, fennel, juniper, and cured ham. (You can also order good old duck liver pâté, presented, whimsically, "in scatola," or canned.) The house pâtés are served with toasted rounds of lightly buttered Acme soudough — yum — and the grapefruit gimlet makes a nice bracing accompaniment to all those rich flavors.

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