Put aside your smoker and your mesquite chips, and whatever other accouterments the Mainlander might consider to be essential to an authentic barbecue experience. If you're eating at Mo's, you've come to be schooled in art of the backyard barbecue done the proper Polynesian way — a cuisine of teriyaki-infused grilled meats, white rice, and extra-mayonnaise-y macaroni salad tossed with artificial crabmeat. This is, first and foremost, a restaurant for those who love enormous portions of meat: well-charred Korean-cut beef short ribs, chicken thighs cooked low and slow on a Weber grill until their skin is sticky and caramelized, and — a Samoan specialty — thick slices of lush, fatty corned beef that's as tasty as any you'll find at an Irish pub. Even better than the food, or at least just as good, is the restaurant's low-key island vibe. Mo's is a takeout joint, mostly, but everyone is so friendly, you might just decide to stay awhile.
© 2018 East Bay Express