At most pizza restaurants, the gluten-free version — if it's even available — seems to be an obligatory afterthought. Usually, the raw dough is shipped frozen from an outside supplier. Not so at Lucia's, in part because co-owner Steve Dumain has celiac. Even before opening the Berkeley restaurant, it was important to Dumain to offer a gluten-free pizza that actually tastes like pizza. The Lucia's team landed on a combination of rice, buckwheat, corn, and a special wheat flour that goes through a Swiss washing process to remove the gluten. The high-hydration dough gets cooked in the restaurant's 900-degree Neapolitan wood oven, and emerges golden brown, pleasingly chewy, lightly crisp, and remarkably bread-like in flavor. It's not surprising many gluten-free eaters order the pizza, take a bite, and tell their server they must have received the wrong order. It's that good.