Best Gin Cocktail

Demeter's Daughter at Pathos

In the few months it's been open, Pathos has drawn (deserved) praise for its elegant design, excellent service, and crazy-delicious grilled octopus small plate. But among the upscale restaurant's many, many charms is also a cocktail program on par with some of the East Bay's best bars, rife as it is with foams, name-brand liquors, and, in one case, atomized ouzo. The bar's crown jewel, however, is a drink that's simple and perfect and perfect in its simplicity, made from Botanivore gin — a particularly herby variety from Alameda's St. George's Spirits — rosemary, St. Germain, lavender bitters, and a lemon peel. This is a gin drinker's gin drink: Potent and bright and bracingly herbaceous, with all the ingredients intended to complement, rather than mask, the Botanivore. It's sturdy enough to stand up to something like, say, grilled octopus, but for best results, drink it with few distractions.

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