When James Beard published a recipe for Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic in the mid-1970s, America's obsession with the pungent bulb had not begun. Even now, forty cloves are unheard of — unless you're talking about garlic fries. For some reason, the ballpark staple demands that a patron's pores reek of garlic for a week after the last pitch. Roland Robles, chef of the food truck Fivetenburger, understands that garlic is an ingredient, not the ingredient. He tosses his shoestring fries in garlic oil, foregoing minced garlic so the aroma of the oil is the driving force behind the slightly bitter tang delivered in each bite. The thin potato strips ensure that the fries come out crispy and not too dense, so the oil doesn't saturate or overpower the potato. Irresistible, the garlic fries even give Robles' amazing artisan burgers, which he expertly dares to cook rare and top with bacon and a fried egg, a whiff of jealousy.
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