Even just the menu, Formaggio e Dolci, qualifies as food porn, with inducements like "Cantucci pistachio-chocolate-hazelnut biscotti, almond cookie brutti ma buoni, espresso shortbread." (That's one dessert, not a list of many.) Bomboloni, elegant Florentine doughnuts, necessitate total brain realignment where doughnuts are concerned. Cheesecake made of goat's milk is encrusted with pistachio brittle and counterbalanced with fresh strawberries. The texture of the cheesecake is dense and unrefined in the best way. Affogato is brought to the table with a dainty miniature pitcher of espresso ready to be poured over the gelato (chocolate, vanilla, or a scoop of each). The shortbread served alongside is a falsely modest cookie, cut to a casual shape and speckled with espresso, sandy crumbly and only faintly sweet. Bellanico is one of the new additions to Glenview's nascent gourmet ghetto, and the crowds outside on Saturday nights suggest it's stealing the show. Chef Jonathan Luce is a publicly declared "dessertatarian," and with a median price of $7, his luxury goods are affordable as well.
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