Of the many ways to prepare raw fish — sushi, kinilaw, poke — ceviche may be the tastiest and most luscious. Marinating seafood in seasoned citrus juice until "cooked" (that is, until firm and opaque) dates back to Peru's Incas, and at La Furia Chalaca, a handsome, family-run Peruvian restaurant near Jack London Square, the ceviche is worthy of any pre-Columbian emperor. Impeccably fresh squid, prawns, and sea bass emerge from their marinade tangy with lime and the bite of chili pepper; their flesh juicy and tender; their sweet, briny flavor delectably enhanced. Like all of the restaurant's dishes, it's served in a colorful, artfully arranged mosaic with its traditional accompaniments, hominy, yucca, and sweet potato — a feast for eye and taste bud alike.
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