Back in May, What the Fork broke the news about The Local Butcher Shop, Aaron and Monica Rocchino’s whole-beast meat shop just starting its build-out in Berkeley. Last week it opened, a lovely space that feels more Upper West Side than North Berkeley, all gleaming white tiles, soaring blackboards chalked handsomely, and a rambling case with squab, beef, chickens — all sorts of pristine-looking meats — overseen by butchers rocking neckties and crisp-looking aprons.
Local also does a sandwich of the day. Yesterday it was chicken ($8) — chicken salad, really, on an Acme Kaiser roll with greens and tomato, a rough dice of dark-meat flesh that seemed to be from the back, maybe the legs. It fit, philosophically, with Aaron Rocchino’s approach, which is to focus on more than just beef filet and chicken breasts, but to find a customer (or a use) for damn near every part of a given carcass.
Was it a revelatory chicken salad sandwich? Nah, but it was good enough, plus it gave me an excuse to eat something that was better: the Local’s shop-made tallow chips ($2.25). They’re skin-on potato chips, fried in a mixture of rendered beef fat and vegetable oil, thin, crisp, and un-greasy. Nice.
Get in touch at John.Birdsall@EastBayExpress.com, and follow me on Twitter @John_Birdsall.