L.A.-style Korean-Mexican street food made inroads in the Bay Area years ago, if mostly only at food trucks and student-oriented spots, but SoCal transplants Alan Chun and Alice Woo wanted Belly, their Uptown Oakland restaurant, to be more ambitious, in terms of food quality — but not so ambitious as to be above offering heaping mounds of French fries and all-you-can-drink Pibb Xtra from a soda fountain. The menu draws inspiration from the kinds of Korean tacos (spiked with gochujang or bulgogi sauce) that the L.A. street food mogul Roy Choi popularized, as well as San Diego’s California burrito (which combines carne asada, French fries, and cheese). The restaurant’s crowning glory, a steak-and-eggs burrito, is a variation on both those themes: Korean-marinated steak, crispy pommes frites-style French fries, and a runny-yolked fried egg. Non-traditional though it may be, you’d be hard-pressed to find a more satisfying burrito in town.
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