Modeled after the neighborhood places founder Robert Volberg researched in New Orleans just before Katrina hit, Angelines feels small-parish authentic. Chef Brandon Dubea, a native of Baton Rouge, offers surprisingly manicured versions of dishes too often blown up into caricature. The jambalaya is restrained, and Dubeas gumbo (thin, swampy-black from long-cooked roux, a weedy undercurrent of filé) is nice and homey. Order anything cornmeal-crusted the kitchens sauté skills are solid.
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Extra Info: some organic produce