Attention, Cheese Board: Your long reign as king of gourmet pizzas is over. Dopo’s pies are now officially the thing. Five reasons: 1. Baked to order, not in big batches, chef Jon Smulewitz’ pizzas come out of the oven puffy-crackly and glistening with oil. 2. The mix of cheeses melting overtop isn’t just a lid for the ingredients. It has a little bite, a life of its own. Sometimes we’re content with the basic Dopo pizza with cheese, pepper flakes, and anchovies. 3. No enforced vegetarianism. You can get meat on your pizzas — homemade spicy Calabrian sausage, for example, or pancetta with caramelized cabbage. 4. Dopo offers five different choices every day, not one. 5. You can sit down to eat the pizza without getting those disturbing brown dirt circles on your pants from flopping down on the Shattuck Avenue divider.
Readers’ Pick for Best Pizza:
Zachary’s
Two locations: Oakland, 510-655-6385; Berkeley, 510-525-5950
Zacharys.com
