Bert Johnson / file photo
Summer is a good time to get one of the curry rice plates at Muracci's.
A recent spur-of-the-moment visit to the UC Berkeley campus reminded me of two interrelated, if seemingly contradictory truths I hold to be self-evident. The first is how much more convenient and low-key it is to visit the area when the majority of the students are away on summer break. The second is my fear that all of my favorite restaurants near campus will suffer a precipitous drop in business during the summer months and will wind up closing altogether. Even chains aren’t exempt from this danger — e.g., the now-shuttered outpost of Maoz Vegetarian, my one-time favorite free-refills fast-food falafel bar.
All the more reason that now is a great time to revisit, or try for the first time, these close-to-campus favorites:
Chris Duffey / file photo
Cumin-spiced "toothpick lamb" at Chengdu Style.
1. Chengdu Style Restaurant
(2600 Bancroft Way) is my go-to spot for rustic, home-style Sichuan cooking
— a cuisine of fiery-red hot pots and tongue-numbing spice. During my visits, the restaurant has been patronized almost exclusively by Chinese international students, and it’s easy to see why: The food is priced to suit a student budget, and dishes such as the flour-steamed pork ribs and spicy “water-boiled” fish pack a big flavor wallop, and are perfect for family-style dining. If you’re a fan of the Sichuan peppercorn (the citrusy spice that creates the cuisine’s characteristic numbing effect), let your server know — that way the kitchen will know that it has permission to hit you with the full dose.
2. With multiple locations and a food truck to boot, Sunrise Deli
(2456 Bancroft Way) is set up to sustain the slow summer months. Still, for my money, the food is a cut above at the Berkeley brick-and-mortar location
. My standard, unapologetically decadent order is the Super Falafel, a falafel wrap loaded up with roasted eggplant, potatoes, hummus, and falafel balls — the Middle Eastern answer to a super burrito.
3. If curry is what you crave, you won’t do much better than Muracci’s Japanese Curry & Grill
(2428 Telegraph Ave.), the Berkeley outpost of a family-run San Francisco-based mini-chain. The restaurant’s scratch-made curry sauce
is a perfect complement to batter-fried meat and heaping mounds of white rice (see photo at the top of the page). While some might consider a sweat-inducing bowl of curry to be cold-weather fare, I view it as pure comfort food, any time of year.
Stephen Loewinsohn / file photo
Behold the "Alameda."
4. Home to the massive, Hollandaise-topped savory French toast sandwich known as the “Alameda,” Sunny Side Cafe
(2136 Oxford St.) is a popular spot among students as well as families with kids. On weekends in particular, the list of seasonal specials — often including even more decadent versions of the Alameda — is worth checking out.
Chris Duffey / file photo
Steamed surf clams at Great China.
5. Okay, so Great China
(2190 Bancroft Way) — arguably the most popular Chinese restaurant in Berkeley — probably isn’t hurting for business, summer break or not. Still, for diners who are averse to long waits, this is a good time to visit when the Northern Chinese specialist is less crowded — especially if you can make it over for weekday lunch. The Peking duck is the showstopper, but I’m also a fan
of the fried baby clams and the steamed buns with sautéed Dungeness crab (if you can catch it before the season is over).