Street Meat: Food Town Market Fried Chicken

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Find it: Daily, inside the corner market at 3049 Sacramento St. (at Tyler St.), Berkeley � in the case to the left of the cash register.

What to get: Take your pick of bird parts, carefully sorted into big metal racks; just one monster breast piece ($1.99) will fill you up for hours. It's all but greaseless, and the breading has the vaguely bacon-y taste of good paprika.

Who's in line: An older guy from the neighborhood in gold aviators and a crisp-looking Kangol cap.

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