Half Donut, Half Chip, Picoso's Bu�uelitos Rock

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Deep-fried, delicately crackery bu�uelitos may be the best thing coming out of the kitchen at Picoso, the two-month-old taqueria (sister to nearby Taste restaurant) that took over from the defunct Socca Oven in Berkeley's Epicurious Garden food court. In Mexico, bu�uelos are bigger than the ones here � author Diana Kennedy describes wandering the markets of Uruapan looking for the best specimen to dip into hot chocolate. Picoso's cooks use a pasta machine to roll house-made bu�uelito dough wafer-thin, then deep-fry the hanky-sized sheets before sanding them with cinnamon sugar. Crispy and deliciously undersweetened, they're as addictive as good tortilla chips. Get one for dessert when you order lunch, but we're guessing you'll be munching on the last crispy shard by the time your tacos are up.

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