Chase it down: Thursday through Saturday, in the parking lot at 12432 San Pablo Ave., Richmond. What to get: The Lunch Delight ($6.99) brings small, fine-grained catfish, rolled in cornmeal and deep-fried, with hush puppies and greaseless fries.
Who's in line: A lady in hoop earrings and a nice pantsuit, who says she just got back from a vacation in Italy. "I missed y'all too much," she tells the counter guy. "O-kay?"