Street Meat: Brazil Fresh Squeeze Café

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Chase it down: Daily, at the corner of University and Walnut in Berkeley. What to get: Hunks of grilled beef on the tri-tip plate ($7.99) substitute taste for tenderness - they've absorbed garlicky marinade the way hair absorbs cigarette smoke in a Rio bar. Who's in line: Grizzled hippies, student carnivores, and skaters pushing 30.

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