Best Dim Sum

East Ocean Seafood Restaurant

The equation for amazing dim sum is simple. The food must be inexpensive, plentiful, and brought on fast-paced carts past full tables and impatient crowds waiting to be seated, and the waiters should save the more unusual (and often best) dishes for those diners who've earned trust and respect for being adventurous. Ignore San Francisco and Oakland; East Ocean Seafood Restaurant excels in all these criteria. The usual favorites are all here; siu mai, bau, and hor kau, and they make a good showing. Packed full of meat and vegetables, they aren't too dense or oily. The salt-and-pepper calamari is light and crisp, a perfect starter for the more ambitious dishes like cold chicken claws, shark-fin soup, and cold jellyfish. The jellyfish receives a short sauté before being marinated in sesame oil and soy sauce. The texture can be off-putting — similar to a chewy version of seaweed salad — but it's a highlight of dim sum that East Ocean Seafood does wonderfully. With a little restraint you can pass on a few of the steaming carts and make room for a few of the rotating specials made to order from the kitchen. Let the waiter be your guide and you won't go wrong.
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