To be fair, there’s a distinct possibility that this is the East Bay’s only Cajun Food in the Back of a Punk Club. But make no mistake, David Hledik and Louise Martin’s mini-restaurant would be worth a trip if it were in the back of a mortuary or a club playing solely Justin Bieber or a storefront full of wasps — it really is that good. Cut past the club’s lovably grimy front bar and through the mohawked masses, hang a right into the tiny, surprisingly orderly restaurant space, and order a beer, an authentic, Louisiana-style catfish po’ boy, and a plate of cracklins (crispy, sweet, salty fried pig skin served with three different sauces). Bring an appetite — and possibly earplugs.
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