.Most Unexpected Pleasure

Eating durian — a fruit that looks like a football for monsters, covered in green spikes — is forbidden in many subways, hotels, and public spaces across Southeast Asia. That’s because it smells like an open sewer in August. But the durian shake whipped up at Pho Hoa Lao — a Vietnamese pho (soup) parlor with a dedicated drink-maker during busy shifts — whips the pungent fruit into shape. Sure, you’ll detect a hint of gas leak with the first sip, but then durian’s sweet, tropical undertaste will charm you. Maybe you’ll even find out why some people believe it’s an aphrodisiac. Just brush your teeth before whispering sweet nothings in your sweetheart’s ear.